Puerto Rico’s El Morro: A Fortified Adventure

The large expanse of green grass looked inviting under the Puerto Rican sunshine. I’d been here before, entering through the front of El Morro previously. This time I decided to explore El Morro in reverse. Perhaps that decision was a little flawed, but who would have guessed at the time.  

Beginning our adventure at El Paseo de la Princesa, this tree lined esplanade showcases the gorgeous Jardin de la Princesa. Pristine cobblestones lead us to a dramatic end at the Raices Fountain and the azure Atlantic Ocean beyond.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, commonly known as El Morro, is an impressive fort built in the 16^th century by the Spanish to protect Puerto Rico from invaders. An almost two mile, well paved path snakes alongside the old fort walls guided by the ocean’s edge, each curve revealing even more majestic beauty, both natural and man made.

How these walls and turrets were built so high and have withstood the ravages of time is awe inspiring.

Climate has had an effect on parts of the fort. A sign tells of a landslide on the north side of Castillo San Felipe del Morro in 2011 and the impacts that hurricanes Irma and Maria have had on the area. Steps are being taken to mitigate damage and preserve the historical significance of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As we came around another curve, an enormous red doorway, Puerta de San Juan (San Juan Gate) invites us in through the fort wall. Thank you for the invitation, however we are curious how far this path goes and shall press on. A decision we may regret.

“If you were a dignitary arriving from Spain in the 1500s through the 1800s, you would enter the city through this gate. Access to and from the city was tightly controlled through five gates. As the formal entrance, San Juan Gate meant protection and relief for weary travelers. Through its doors passed the documents, money, and people to carry out the Crown’s will in this colony.” The sign states.

Glad to have pressed on, we passed plenty of nature’s wonders, large old trees, flowering plants, crashing waves and several cats. The walls of El Morro standing prominently alongside, dwarfing us tiny humans.

I paused several times to take in the salt air and the sunshine, while pulling my phone out to record these beautiful memories. It is about the journey AND the destination, right?

At the end of the path we come upon a set of stairs that rises at several levels. I stop at each turn to take in the spectacular scenery, palm trees blowing in the same gusty wind that brings large turquoise waves to shore, crashing against the breakwall like a symphony. Wow! This world of ours is so beautiful, I think to myself.

As we arrive at the top we find a metal barred gate with an old fashioned lock. We can no longer enter the fort or the beautiful green grassy expanse that is inches beyond us. Should have taken the invitation of the formal gate, but no, my curiosity and adventurous spirit led me here to a locked gate.

If we turned left and continued on we’d end up at the Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, but here the path is no longer paved and is slippery due to heavy rain the day before. Plus, these gates are also locked. I know because, of course, I tried it.

So back up to the barred gate at the fort to call out to whom? “Por favor, ayúdame!”

Walking back the couple of kilometers wasn’t an option for me. By now I’m hot, thirsty and had a plan to walk along the pastel streets of Old San Juan beyond this. They are gorgeous and I haven’t been here in a while, and don’t want to walk all the way back around, as gorgeous as it is.

Thankfully, here comes a lady sprinting towards us who says she jogs along the Paseo El Morro regularly, and tells us the gates are supposed to be open at this time. She knows the number and makes a call on her cell phone. “They’re coming,” she says, because she too dislikes the idea of having to go all the way back around. Help is on the way!

We chit chat for a few minutes and the park guardian arrives to open the lock. Our excitement is palpable. We are grateful to her and for the serendipity of our perfectly timed meeting. This is the lady, in the red shirt.

Apparently, the gates are locked when the ocean waves are rough and there is risk of the waves coming up onto the path that sits several stories below. This discourages people from venturing down from the front of the fort. But what about the people coming up?  Didn’t make sense to me, but I’m sure it does, somehow.

Regardless, we spilled out onto the big green expanse and breathed in the ocean air with relief. The scent of green grass whether real or imagined is like perfume, while the sounds of the old city call gently to me in this magical moment.

Exploring the view through the turrets and from this height is spectacular.  The historic cemetery, the ocean, the buildings that line the coast, all visible from this birds eye view. See for yourself. It’s magnificent.

Another wonderful little experience I had while walking on the path below was passing an old Banyan tree, its tendrils reaching gracefully for earth. There was something special about the old gnarly tree, its roots pirouetting like a dancer. On a bench beneath it sat a man, who seemed to be waiting for something. It elicited a poem that I share with you in this post. The ending may surprise you. https://lifewithalegria.com/2025/02/17/the-last-lunch-at-el-morro/

In a future post, I’ll delight you with images of the pastel coloured buildings of Old San Juan and some interesting things we encountered there.

There is something quite special about Puerto Rico and especially this area of the country in Viejo (old) San Juan. If you’ve been, then you’ve felt it.  Have you? Tell me about your adventure here.